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Thread: Tru oil and wax neck finishing

  1. #1
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    Default Tru oil and wax neck finishing

    Having read a number of recommendations on here, I ordered the casey birchwood tru oil and gunstock wax for my 1984, which has a completely unfinished neck.

    Could someone tell me the best method for applying it? and should I do it on the fretboard? it gets pretty dirty as you might be able to see

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  2. #2
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    First of all clean the fboard and sure you can apply oil and wax on it.
    I use to apply tru oil and gunstock wax with a paper towel. Just put oil or wax on the towel and quickly pass it on the neck. So easy.
    You might want to also sand the back of the neck with a 1000/2000 grit paper to get it pretty smooth, after having oiled it.
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    Stefano

  3. #3
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    I've had good luck with tung-oil the same way. I put some on a paper towel and wipe all over then leave for a few days and steel wool. Anyone else??

  4. #4
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    There was a great instructional thread that i used for this when i did my neck.

    Sanded the neck with 2000 grit to clean it off before i started. Then i started applying the tru-oil, and letting it dry over night. Went over the neck with 0000 steel wool before each coat to ensure the surface was smooth and level.
    Trey
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  5. #5
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    First thing, sand it really smooth.
    With tru oil, I prefer not to use it pure, it tends to dry pretty quickly so you can end with something really sticky when you finish applying it.
    For the first coat, I dilute it 50% with mineral spirit, then apply it with a very clean cloth, and leave it to dry for 24h. Then steel wool it.
    For the 3 next coats, I dilute it 25%. Then, same process : dry + steel wool.

    I don't put tru oil on the fretboard. I clean it with lemon oil. But I quite like it when a maple fretboard gets stained, it looks cool. Just my point of view, which may not be shared.
    Erwan

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breizman View Post
    First thing, sand it really smooth.
    With tru oil, I prefer not to use it pure, it tends to dry pretty quickly so you can end with something really sticky when you finish applying it.
    For the first coat, I dilute it 50% with mineral spirit, then apply it with a very clean cloth, and leave it to dry for 24h. Then steel wool it.
    For the 3 next coats, I dilute it 25%. Then, same process : dry + steel wool.

    I don't put tru oil on the fretboard. I clean it with lemon oil. But I quite like it when a maple fretboard gets stained, it looks cool. Just my point of view, which may not be shared.
    true, I kind of like it - it's like a map of where I play. I don't know why the 6th fret is so dirty though

    thanks for your help guys, seems fairly straightforward.
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  8. #8
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    woah woah, doesnt it have to be sealed first? then oiled??????????
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  9. #9
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    Isn't that what oil does?

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    just wondering, warmoth and musikraft ship them sealed, so just wondering if it would be okay to top with tru oil after that. just a thought =]
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    Quote Originally Posted by aceman_831 View Post
    just wondering, warmoth and musikraft ship them sealed, so just wondering if it would be okay to top with tru oil after that. just a thought =]

    No, you need to removed the shellac Musikraft seals their necks with first.
    Tru-oil hardens over time and is a very good sealer, so no worries there.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blix View Post
    No, you need to removed the shellac Musikraft seals their necks with first.
    Tru-oil hardens over time and is a very good sealer, so no worries there.
    thank you =] as i will be headed down this road as well
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  13. #13
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    Default Awesome guitar you have!

    It reminds me of the George Lynch kramer!

  14. #14
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    You can remove the thin sealer that Musikraft puts on there with denatured alcohol, comes right off.
    JM

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    One question, do you do just the neck and fretboard? How about the headstock? And if you oil the headstock, will it ruin the waterslide decal? Or do you just clear coat the headstock separately?
    JM

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    Neck and fretboard only for me, I leave the headstock alone.
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    Yeah, thinking about it I would just oil the neck/FB and shoot a clear coat on the HS just to protect the logo and call it a day.
    JM

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    Use real fine grade paper or oooo wool. But DON'T go with the grain. It will impregnate the stain.

    After you get I clean use sanding sealer to guard against future stains.

    I'm only talking about the board here
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  19. #19
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    did this to 3 of my guitars tonight

    the oil can bring out any hidden flame and birdseye, and the wax feels very nice...recommend it
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  20. #20
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    After you apply the tru-oil, how long do you wait to apply the gun stock wax? or do you need to at all?
    JM

  21. #21
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    I waited an hour or 2.

    I wiped off the excess about 30 seconds after initially applying it, then I steelwooled it to smooth it out before I applied the wax
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  22. #22
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    OK, good. Mine's been sitting for about 2 weeks now. So I should be able to wax it with no problem. How did yours turn out?
    JM

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    Quote Originally Posted by kramernoob View Post

    the oil can bring out any hidden flame and birdseye,
    It brings out the grain definition that wasn't noticeable before, covered up by the poly, in my case, I had stripped it off.

  24. #24
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    I need the wax. I have the oil, but my local store doesn't stock the wax

    So I just use ear wax......................





























































    :happy1






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    I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeyM View Post
    OK, good. Mine's been sitting for about 2 weeks now. So I should be able to wax it with no problem. How did yours turn out?
    now all my guitars feel great, playing them is like fondling the thighs of a supermodel

    bob
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