A few 1984 questions

[mmmtacos]

I lovin having one of these. but I've got a few questions.

Someone had told me to use some sanding sealer on the fretboard and oil on tha back of the neck. I was wondering, couldn't you seal the whole neck? Seems that would keep it looking clean? (BTW- this is a sweeeeeet neck )

Pickup. I was wondering how close this one is to Ed's original. I know he used a Gibson pup and rewound it. How does this one compare to say a Wolfgang pickup?

Ed's Brown Sound was due to a combination of things like :pickup, amp, variac,... is there something I can do to replicate that sound he had on say "unchained"? that's gotta be one of the coolest sounding riffs IMO

Volume pot. Very muddy at lower volumes. Should I change it? If so, to what exactly? Or do I just need a cap?

thanks, bob

[unchained1984]

Yeah you could do that but while your fingers won't feel any difference on the board with sanding sealer I wouldn't necessarily want to apply it to the back of the neck as there is loads more surface area contact between your hand & the back of the neck.
If you want to keep that unfinished but smooth feel then applying pure tung oil or gunstock oil is the way to go - honestly mine is about 2 1/2 years old & both the board & neck look pristine.

Now regards the pup the same principle applies as the lower output issue , simply raising the pup will give you more definition with the 84T. If you want to stay 100% with Ed's approach to mounting then stick a solid wood shim in there to raise it or a quicker remedy is just to stick a couple of stock pup springs under it.

Sandy

[MrScary]

That is very good info...I will use this advie as well. Thank you!

Eric

[bkeen]

Yeah you could do that but while your fingers won't feel any difference on the board with sanding sealer I wouldn't necessarily want to apply it to the back of the neck as there is loads more surface area contact between your hand & the back of the neck.
If you want to keep that unfinished but smooth feel then applying pure tung oil or gunstock oil is the way to go - honestly mine is about 2 1/2 years old & both the board & neck look pristine.

Now regards the pup the same principle applies as the lower output issue , simply raising the pup will give you more definition with the 84T. If you want to stay 100% with Ed's approach to mounting then stick a solid wood shim in there to raise it or a quicker remedy is just to stick a couple of stock pup springs under it.

Sandy

I used sanding sealer on the whole maple neck of one of my guitars. At first it was a bit ruff on the back and not very smooth. After playing it for a month it smoothed out to be almost exactly like an american strat neck. Very smooth and clean as can be!

[_xxx_]

I inserted a pickup ring right away before even plugging it in. And I use lem oil for the neck.

[Axe]

Tung Oil

[Rick S]

I love the vol. pot on the 84. You roll it back to get a really cool neck pup tone. As a matter of fact, I have been using my 84 for some cool old blues stuff. Set my amp up just so, then roll er back and presto, blues. Also roll back for some mellow solo type stuff. Ala 'Big Fat Money'. Putz around with your '84 to find new cool ways to do stuff. You'll love it!

[puddy]

I think the direct pup mount is the best type of mounting for tone.

I agree that the only problem of this is the hight. A wood shim under the pup solves this very well.

I can't wait to get mine tomarrow!!

Come on Fedex!!!!

[Rick S]

I remember when I first got my '84 thinking the tone was a bit thin. That raising the pup would be the ticket. I didnt raise it. I turned the low knob on my amp up one #. Done!

[MrScary]

Fedex was supposed to have mine here by noon...it is now after 3 and I'm getting nervous. No sign of it. I need to leave for work in about 15 minutes and i KNOW they will leave it outside...my neighbors will take it and I'll never know. WTF!?

Eric

[unchained1984]

I wouldn't use lemon oil at all on maple , rosewood yes but not maple. Rosewood being naturally oily can take the lemon oil sparingly but it's generally accepted to be detrimental to the health of unfinished maple , the maple will absorb it & it'll dry out if you continue to use it.

Each to their own I guess but an oiled neck is going to feel that bit nicer to the touch though admittedly does require a bit more maintenace however IMO it's worth the little extra maintenace for the feel it offers. TO reiterate using the sanding sealer on the fingerboard is well worth the effort too if you don't want it to gunk up,it'll afford the maple a good deal of protection from sweaty fingers.

Sandy

[Tone?]

i have an unfinished maple neck on an old roadstar of mine that is from 85. after 20 years of playing that sucker without putting anything on it but my hands, it is the smoothest nicest neck i have ever played

unfinished necks take a bit of time to make them feel amazing

[mmmtacos]

Thanks Unchained,
How often should I apply the oil. Say...at each string change?

I'm taking the neck off tonite to shim the front and thereby lower the FR down cause it tilts back some and I've been fretting a little on the higher frets. Raising the studs really only raises the front of the FR after a certain point and only makes for more tilt-back.

So, yea, I figure that will allow the FR to sit flatter and as a bonus the pickup won't need raised cause it'll be closer to the now lower strings.

Hey, does anybody know how to attach a quarter (just for looks) without marring the body?

[mmmtacos]

Well I'm done. I removed the neck completely the first time to see if there were any shims already there. I used a piece of fine sandpaper (doubled) which was too much. So I loosened the neck and changed to 1 thickness.

Now the FR sits down almost flat and I can adjust for height if needed.

I also took a spring out. When I tried to tighten the claw the screws wouldn't go far enough. Not because they bottomed out. but because they weren't drilled straight. So I drilled the two holes in the claw out to about 1/4". It worked. I can now tighten the claw down unrestricted as far as necessary.

Now it's got that speghetti like loosness to it.

Next question: I've been careful to wash my hands before playing because I haven't treated to FB with anything yet. But you know the nickel that gets on your fingers when you play with new strings. I now have that on my fretboard. Is it possible to get that off?

bob

[unchained1984]

Bob the marks will lift with a 'tiny' amount of lemon oil applied to a clean rag, once you've done that & removed any excess lemon get the sanding sealer on there in the next couple days. Truly a tiny amount of lemon oil you don't want too much of that getting on unfinished maple.

Regards frequency of oiling the neck it's going to depend on a couple issues : how often you play/how variable the weather is your way/ how much humidity etc. I've a couple unfinished maple necks including a retta & I tend to give em a fine rub with paper then oil 'em maybe 3 times a year.

Remember to remove any excess tung with a rag too otherwise it'll feel a little sticky. It should feel smooth to the touch , over time the neck will have a light golden hue (kinda vintage look) due to the tung in there.

Sandy

[RockStringBender]

Tung's chemical cure is also enhanced by artifical light. Sit the neck under an incandescent lamp for a couple of hours before you steel wool or rag wipe it and it will get nice and tight...

[kellcats521]

I would use some paint thinner or kerosene to take the nickel stains off the fretboard - like Sandy wrote, just a small amount on a rag will easily lift the stains without soaking the wood. Let the thinner dry for ~10 min., then go with the sanding sealer on the fretboard - I use water-based sealer as it makes for easier cleanup. I put it on by soaking a rag in the sealer and wiping it on, and I go over the frets too. Playing it for a few minuites after everything dries will quickly wear it off of the fret crowns.

[Axe]

Naptha for removing stains on a Maple fretboard..

Apply tung oil approx once a year for a neck smooth as a baby's ( ! )

IF I keep my 84 I will undoubtably tung oil my neck and fretboard and most likely install a neck HB and LP style 3 way switch

I also have a local art instructor/teacher that has offered on numerous occasions to air brush a custom graphic on to any of my instruments That possibly may be a way out of this Red & White Bullseye

[Rick S]

IF I keep my 84 I will undoubtably tung oil my neck and fretboard and most likely install a neck HB and LP style 3 way switch

Hate to keep sounding like an ass but, why did you buy an '84? Why not buy an old Pacer?

[Shwayman11]

IF I keep my 84 I will undoubtably tung oil my neck and fretboard and most likely install a neck HB and LP style 3 way switch

Hate to keep sounding like an ass but, why did you buy an '84? Why not buy an old Pacer?

+1

[mmmtacos]

I did the board with sanding sealer and the back of the neck with tung oil.

While the strings are off I'm going to raise the pup a little. And I've decided to block the floyd in the cavity. It seems that the G is fretting from around the 7th on up and I can't get it high enough without the FR sitting way tilted. I could backshim the neck some more but I don't want that much gap in the neck pocket

Isn't the FR made on a 14" radius? the 1984 is 12" I may need to get some shims.

Either way I'm in the home stretch. I'm almost done tweeking

[_xxx_]

Isn't the FR made on a 14" radius? the 1984 is 12" I may need to get some shims.

Shimming just the upper 3-4 floyd saddles with a thin metal plate will do the job. Did this often.

[byronbrassballs]

Can someone explain the "R1 & R2" nut-sizes?

[Axe]

http://www.schaller-guitarparts.de/1224.htm

looks like about 1.6mm or so,,, 1 5/8"vs 1 11/16"

[bkeen]

Actually I believe it is 1-1/2(R1) and 1-5/8(R2)